18ky Green Tourmaline Bow Brooch

Hexagonal settings, cocktail rings, and basket settings were all the rage in the Deco Era. The “Mystery setting” or “Serti Invisible” was developed by Van Cleef & Arpels. This technique involved cutting a groove in the girdle that would slip into the metal framework below the surface so no metal could be seen. Stones cut a “calibre” was another new technique developed by gem cutters. These specially cut stones made for the geometric designs or “mosaic” designs of the era.

Long and layered pearl necklaces were in high demand, especially with intricate, gemstone-embellished clasps to be worn in the front. Onyx, diamond, aquamarine, and ruby were the key stones of the 20s, typically used as a clean contrast to the detail of the gold. After the creation of 18k white gold, it was often combined with platinum after the First World War. The sturdiness of platinum meant safe gem coverage, while the white gold was much more affordable. Rings often had white gold bands, with a platinum setting for the stone.

The discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922 caused inspiration and filled jewellery stores with Egyptian-Style pieces, such as scarabs. Cartier had even created jewellery with small amounts of the antique Egyptian treasures as a way to display the archaeological finds.