Birks Platinum Diamond 1.73ctw Ring with Sterling Birks Ring Box

During this Era platinum and precious metals were once again rationed for the war effort. Making yellow gold the metal choice of the time. Various alloys were used to create thinner sheets of metal which gave jewellers a chance to experiment with new finishing techniques. With these new alloys came various shades of gold, sometimes seen in a single piece. Gemstones were also in short supply meaning a lot of pieces were made with more metal versus housing gemstones. Less expensive stones became more popular including topaz, amethyst, aquamarine and citrine. Diamonds were reserved for the use of pave settings and as accent stones. It was not uncommon during this time to commission a bespoke piece using metals and gemstones already owned.

Larger silhouettes were preferred in cocktail rings, necklaces and bracelets. Often featuring scrolls, fans and flowers, which was quite a contrast from the geometric lines of the Art Deco Era. Snake chains were popular as they gave a large, bold look without the use of as much metal. As the Art Deco era came to a close, society took a step towards the modern styles we see today due to the people beginning to view the Art Deco style as distastefully luxurious during the start of World War II.